Performing an oil change at home can save you money and give you a deeper understanding of your vehicle’s maintenance. If you’re planning to tackle this task yourself, especially working underneath your car, having the right Oil Change Tools To Underneath Car is crucial for safety and efficiency. This guide will walk you through the essential tools and steps for a successful DIY oil change from under your vehicle.
To get started, gather all the necessary equipment. Based on proven methods, here’s a comprehensive list of tools you’ll need for an oil change done from under the car:
- 17mm Socket: This is typically the size needed for your car’s oil drain plug. Confirm the correct size for your specific vehicle model.
- Oil Filter Wrench: Essential for removing the old, tightened oil filter. There are various types, so choose one that fits your oil filter size and accessibility.
- Ratchet: To use with the socket for loosening and tightening the drain plug and with the filter wrench (depending on the type).
- Funnel: For pouring new oil into the engine without spills.
- Oil Catch Pan: A container to collect the old oil as it drains, preventing messes and allowing for proper disposal.
- New Oil Filter: Use the correct oil filter specified for your vehicle. For example, Honda vehicles often use filters like Part #15400-PCX-004. Always verify the part number for your car.
- New Crush Washer: This is a single-use washer that goes on the oil drain plug. Replacing it ensures a proper seal and prevents leaks.
- 5-6 Quarts of Engine Oil: Refer to your car’s manual for the exact oil capacity and recommended viscosity (e.g., 10w-30 or 5w-40 depending on your climate).
- Floor Jack: To safely lift your vehicle and gain access to the underside.
- Jack Stands: Absolutely critical safety equipment. Use these to support the vehicle once it’s lifted with the jack. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- Wheel Chocks: Place these behind the rear wheels to prevent the car from rolling while it’s lifted.
- Torque Wrench: For tightening the drain plug and oil filter to the manufacturer’s specified torque, preventing leaks and damage.
Optional but highly recommended tools for a smoother oil change experience:
- Ramps (or 2x4s): If your car is low to the ground, using ramps or pieces of wood like 2x4s can provide extra clearance to position your floor jack properly.
- Aluminum Foil: Creating a makeshift “bib” with aluminum foil around the oil filter area can help channel oil drips away from engine components during filter removal.
- Pipe Extension: Sometimes the oil drain plug can be very tight. A pipe extension on your ratchet handle can provide extra leverage to break it loose.
Here are some of the tools commonly used for an oil change:
Now, let’s proceed with the step-by-step oil change process, emphasizing the use of these tools while working under the car:
1. Preparation and Safety First
It’s best to start with a slightly warm engine, as warm oil flows more easily. Check your car’s temperature gauge; ideally, it should be showing just a few bars.
Begin by positioning your car safely. If your car is low-slung, place two pieces of 2×4 wood in front of your front tires. Carefully drive the front wheels onto these makeshift ramps. This will give you a bit more room to get the floor jack into position.
Engage the parking brake firmly and put the car in gear (or “Park” for automatics). Place wheel chocks securely behind the rear wheels. These precautions are vital to ensure the car remains stationary and safe while you are working underneath it.
2. Lifting the Vehicle Safely
Locate the front-center jacking point on your vehicle. This is usually a reinforced area, often a metal crossmember with a semi-circle indentation. Consult your owner’s manual if you’re unsure of the exact location. Position your floor jack under this point and begin to raise the car. Lift it high enough to provide ample room to work comfortably and safely underneath – around 15 inches is often sufficient.
Once the car is raised to the desired height, immediately and securely place jack stands under the designated side jacking points. These are typically located along the car’s frame, just behind the front wheels. Lower the car onto the jack stands, ensuring they are firmly supporting the vehicle’s weight. Never rely solely on the floor jack to support the car while working underneath.
3. Draining the Old Oil
Slide your oil catch pan underneath the car, positioning it beneath the oil drain plug. Now, carefully slide under the vehicle with your 17mm socket and ratchet. Locate the oil pan – it’s usually the lowest metal component on the engine’s underside. The oil drain bolt is typically found on the passenger side of the oil pan, towards the front.
Position the catch pan to capture the draining oil – it can initially shoot out a few inches. Using your 17mm socket and ratchet, loosen the drain plug by turning it counter-clockwise. If it’s tight, use a pipe extension for added leverage. Once loose, carefully unscrew the plug by hand, letting the old oil drain completely into the pan. Be careful as the oil may be hot.
Allow ample time for the oil to drain thoroughly. While it’s draining, you can move on to the next step – removing the oil filter.
4. Removing the Old Oil Filter
Locate the oil filter. On many vehicles, it’s accessible from underneath. You might be able to reach it from above as well, but working from underneath often provides a clearer view and more space.
To minimize mess, fashion a “bib” out of aluminum foil and position it below the oil filter to direct any spills away from the engine block.
From underneath the car, you’ll typically have a less obstructed view of the oil filter.
Use your oil filter wrench to grip the old filter and turn it counter-clockwise to loosen it. Once loose, you can usually unscrew it the rest of the way by hand. Be prepared for some residual oil to spill out as you remove the filter. Ensure the old filter’s rubber gasket comes off with the filter. If it’s stuck to the engine block, remove it before installing the new filter.
5. Preparing and Installing the New Oil Filter
Take your new oil filter and lubricate the rubber gasket with fresh, new engine oil. This helps create a better seal. Some people also pre-fill the new oil filter with a bit of new oil. This isn’t strictly necessary but can help with initial engine lubrication upon startup.
Install the new oil filter by hand, turning it clockwise until the gasket makes contact with the engine block. Then, tighten it according to the filter manufacturer’s instructions. Often, this is about ¾ to 1 full turn after gasket contact. Some filters have markings to guide you. If you have a torque wrench that can measure low torque values (around 15-18 lb-ft), you can use it to tighten the filter to the specified torque if available. Otherwise, hand-tightening to the recommended turn amount is generally sufficient.
6. Reinstalling the Drain Plug and Adding New Oil
Clean the oil drain plug and install a new crush washer. Ensure the correct orientation of the crush washer (if it matters for your type). Thread the drain plug back into the oil pan by hand, then tighten it with your torque wrench to the manufacturer’s specified torque (often around 29 lb-ft, but verify for your vehicle). Using a torque wrench is important to avoid over-tightening and damaging the oil pan or causing leaks.
Remove the funnel and insert it into the oil fill port on top of your engine. Consult your car’s manual for the correct oil capacity. Typically, start by adding slightly less than the recommended amount (e.g., 4.5 quarts if the capacity is 5.1 quarts).
7. Checking the Oil Level and Final Steps
Replace the oil fill cap and the dipstick. Lower the car back down from the jack stands using the floor jack, and ensure it’s resting safely on the ground.
Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes. Check for any leaks around the drain plug and oil filter. Turn off the engine and wait a few minutes to allow the oil to settle back into the pan.
Use the dipstick to check the oil level. Wipe the dipstick clean, reinsert it fully, and then remove it again to get an accurate reading. Add more oil gradually through the funnel until the oil level is within the “good range” on the dipstick. Avoid overfilling.
Finally, properly dispose of the used oil and filter at a recycling center or auto parts store. Clean up any spills and store your tools. It’s a good practice to re-check the oil level the next day, both cold and after the engine has reached operating temperature, to ensure everything is perfect.
By following these steps and using the right oil change tools to underneath car, you can confidently perform your own oil change, saving money and gaining valuable experience with car maintenance. Remember, safety is paramount when working under your vehicle. Always use jack stands and wheel chocks, and never work under a car supported only by a jack.
